This is a blog from my brother, Mike, who is currently sailing the Caribbean.
4/23/10 Depart Bahia Del Sol, El Salvador
5/12/10 Arrive Colon, Panama
Distance: 1020 Miles
Weed Man
My brother John, a published author and English teacher, is my “go-to” guy when I need to buy a new stack of excellent literature. After hearing that I was suffering through Hemingway’s “For Whom the Bell Tolls,” he gave me a list of books that would be a bit lighter and certainly more enjoyable. One of the books was about a Bahamian kid who discovers a bale of weed while jogging on the beach. I found the subsequent adventure with its colorful Bahamian characters to be highly entertaining. While waiting in the endless customs/immigration line in El Salvador, I had the thought to take out my book. As I was reading, I started having this uneasy feeling that I was garnering the attention of people around me. In fact, it seemed like people in line were moving away from me. Hmmm? How odd.
As I kept reading, I couldn’t quite shake the uneasy feeling that something was out of place. As beads of sweat began to stream down my face, it occurred to me that I was reading a book titled, “Weed Man” while surrounded by well-armed and humorless, El Salvadorian border patrol officials and their pet German Shepherds. With a deep gulp, I closed my neon green book with pictures of leaves on the cover and placed it gently back into my bag. After a five minute eternity, I cleared the check point without any questions about my unfortunate choice of literature.
Rainy Season???
After being away from Shannon for three weeks, it was a pleasure to be back on board with my crew: Ron, Greg and Sarah. We departed El Salvador for Costa Rica under partly cloudy skies. Our fellow cruisers warned us that “Rainy Season” had come early and we may encounter a little weather. The “Rainy Season” sounds so benign that it would lead one to believe that an afternoon shower might be possible from time to time…wrong! The first night out was uneventful, but ominous just the same. With every mile south, the humidity seemed to be building. Something had to break.
The following two nights were nothing short of terrifying. As captain, I drew on my logic to explain to the crew that boats are rarely hit by lightning and that it’s almost unheard of that anyone has ever been injured as a result. Unfortunately, as I was explaining this fact, the highly charged sky behind me was betraying my words with constant flashes and crackling sounds.
At first, we tried to evade the huge black blobs that appeared on the radar, but to no avail. These squalls move at upwards of 50 mph while we putt along at 6 mph. By our second night of lightning, my crew had become somewhat hardened and we began to notice a pattern: stifling humidity and thunderhead plumes build during day, electricity in the air by dusk, followed by almost constant lightning, a torrential downpour, and finally, peace a few hours before daybreak.
It was on the night before we made landfall in Costa Rica that I will never forget. Around 3AM, Greg and I were on watch and feeling optimistic that we had made it through the worst of the lightning while enjoying the cool rain when we were momentarily blinded by a strike half a mile off our starboard beam. What I will remember most is the ear-shattering sizzle, “kkkkkkkkkkkkrrrrrraaaacccckkkkkBOOOOM!” Afterwards, we sat in silence for a time – there’s just not that much to say. As we sat there in the darkness with buckets of water falling on our heads, it occurred to me that what was terror the first night was now familiar and awesome. I’m still trying to understand why I felt like laughing in that moment. Was it the ions in the atmosphere? The fact that I was still alive? The self-evident fact that I am an inconsequential speck relative to the creation? The fact that I was sitting comfortably in a torrential downpour sixty miles from shore? All of the above? I don’t know. I just know I felt happy and grateful.
After an endless night of lightning, the hearty crew (Ron, Sarah, and Greg) celebrate daybreak over coffee!
After three days at sea, we arrived in a Jaco, Costa Rica at Los Suenos, a five star resort and marina. Going from the third world poverty of El Salvador to a place that has all the trappings of American wealth 2500 miles from San Diego was truly a shock to us all. Of course, it didn’t take long for us to make the adjustment and take advantage of all the amenities – what a treat!